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5.2.1
5200 CONTROLLERS - CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
Atari 5200 controller buttons, mainly the fire and start/pause/reset
buttons, wear out prematurely, either by repeated use or by periods
of non-use. Here's the easy way to fix the 5200 controller buttons.
The buttons work by pressing a carbon coated disc against a set of
circuits. The two circuits are interweaved and a connection is made
when the carbon touches both traces. The traces look like this:
|----- |
| ------|
|------ |
| ------|
The carbon coated discs are located on the underside of the rubber
you press. What makes them quit working is the exposed circuit
traces which corrode and get dirty, not allowing the connection to be
made. This is especially true if the controllers are stored for some
time in a damp place (or just unused for a long amount of time) (or
especially if you spill pop on them :). The quick way to fix them is
to clean the traces. This can be done by rubbing (gently!) with a
pencil eraser until shiny clean. This will remedy the situation, but
they will soon corrode again, depending on use. (some versions of the
controllers used different coatings on the traces to avoid this, but
these only slightly prolong the life of the buttons; I haven't seen
any that don't need some periodic cleaning). To open the controller
to clean, follow these steps EXACTLY:
1) With a small screwdriver, pry up the bezel surrounding the start/
pause/reset buttons. Remove the rubber buttons if they don't
come out with the bezel. Now peel the printed circuit off the
plastic case; it's just glued onto it. Lift the right side, as
the left side has connections into the controller. Do NOT rip or
remove the circuit, just unglue it from the case.
2) Remove the three screws from the bottom of the case. Center the
joystick, and leave it there. Now seperate the case halves by
first starting at the start/pause/reset end. The other end is
pressed together; it will snap apart if you seperate the cases.
Don't move the potentiometers in the bottom of the case for the
stick won't mate back up when you put it back together.
3) Remove the fire buttons and their bezels. Now the traces for the
fire buttons are exposed. Clean them by rubbing with an eraser.
Wipe off with a clean napkin or something similar afterwards.
4) Place the fire buttons and their bezels into the lower half of
the case. Guide the start/pause/reset circuit up through the
upper case half where it belongs, and bring the two halves
together. By centering the stick before placing the halves
together, its receptacle will automatically fit into the bottom
of the case, and the two directional axis plates will
automatically hook up with the potentiometers. It's best to
place the numerical keypad end together loosely first, as this
will allow peering into the joystick end as it goes together to
make sure everything lines up. The end of the joystick has to go
into the hole in the bottom case, and the posts on the two arms
on the potentiometers have to go into their respective holes on
the plates in the upper case. After aligning everything
together, make sure the stick moves in all directions freely and
completely. If so, you can screw back in the three screws.
5) Re-stick the start/pause/reset circuit to the case, then clean
these traces as described above. Replace the buttons and the
bezel.
You can also clean the keypad traces while it's apart, they don't
seem to get used as much, so will usually work a lot longer. The
flex circuits with the traces on them are fragile, so be gentle
around them. A hairline crack in a trace can cause certain buttons
not to work at all. These cracks can be repaired by soldering a
bridge over the crack. Careful, the flex circuit often melts before
the solder does!
The permanent way to fix these buttons is by soldering sealed,
surface-mount micro-button switches onto the circuits. This not only
makes the buttons ALWAYS work, but also gives them a 'snap' action,
compared to the mushy feel of the original buttons. The switches I
use are small enough to fit under the original rubber buttons, so
expect for them to work and feel different; you can't tell from the
outside that any change has been made. If anyone is interested in
having their sticks retro-fitted with these superior buttons, let
me know.
 
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